The Climbing Season Starts at Mount Rainier

Get ready, get set...the climbing ranger season has begun!

Climbing rangers are now staffing Camp Muir and the information desk at the Jackson Visitor Center (which is now open daily) to issue climbing permits.

Here's the current schedule for the JVC and for climbing information:

JVC Schedule May 3 -- June 6
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily except Saturdays, when it opens at 6 a.m.

Climbing rangers staff the JVC on weekends in May from 6 a.m to noon Saturday

Note that you can get a climbing permit at the JVC when it is open, even if the climbing rangers aren't there to issue it. Also, while the NPS transitions from winter to spring weather (there is still 5 feet snow in Longmire), be sure to call ahead for weather and road conditions.

To get you pumped about the upcoming good weather, we've posted a few new trip reports, featuring the Fuhrer Finger and Gib Ledges, and one about the ever-popular Muir Snowfield.

Elsewhere you can read about David Brown and Hannah Carrigan's trip up Gib Ledges and ski descent down the Kautz Glacier, as well as a trip report from Kyle Miller and Scott Stuglemyer about their splitboard expedition to Fay Peak - during which they dug out the Mowich Lake ranger station along the way (thanks guys!)
(Photo of Fay Peak ascent by Kyle Miller)

Custom Rear Racks for Roadsters

As some have astutely observed in the previous post, my Raleigh DL-1 now has a rear rack! It is notoriously difficult to find racks that will properly fit these bicycles (without slanting), and the racks that originally came with DL-1s are almost impossible to get ahold of. This here is a prototype for a custom rack by Red Barn Classic Bicycle Accessories, designed and built by metalsmith Jon Gehman with some input from me, specifically to fit the vintage Raleigh DL-1.



The Roadster Rack was built based on the dimensions of the original racks that were typically used with the DL-1, but features some delightful add-ons.

The platform of the rack is fortified with a graceful arch - something the original lacks. There is also a handy light mount at the end for attaching a tail light.



Here is a detail shot. The Roadster Rack is made of 3/8" seamless aircraft chrom-moly tubing; brazed and silver soldered. It is enamel painted, and the matte finish is a good match for the aged paint on my bicycle.



The rack also features these nice loops for attaching bungee cords. Needless to say, these are extremely useful.



Though the functionality of the rack is impeccable, I have to say that - at least for me - the practical aspects are overshadowed by the looks. I am not sure how well my pictures portray this, but the lines of the rack are mesmerisingly graceful. The arch, the light mount, the bungee loops, and even the gentle curves of the platform itself - everything is perfectly proportioned and pleasing to the eye. It makes me feel like a criminal for having now attached a set of Wald folding baskets to my rack - but hey, I needed to carry my laptop bag!



If you are interested in commissioning one of these gorgeous racks from Jon Gehman, the price is $125. And keep an eye on his website for upcoming products, which will include French chainguards and other secret things. I am collaborating with Jon on some of the designs, so you will notice that his pictures are of the prototypes I have on my bikes. However, I am not involved in the sales of the products (nor do I receive any revenue from the sales) - so please contact Jon directly if you'd like to place an order or have questions about his other products. We would also be glad to know what you think of the design, so please feel free to post your honest feedback here.

Ziva's Help

More Christmas Fun

We had two Christmas parties this past week, the first was the work party and the second was the dinner they have for the whole park.



I didn't remember to bring my camera to either one, so I only have pictures from my phone from the work party. We had a nice time talking and we did a White Elephant gift exchange that was fun.









There was lots of good food to eat!







I love sharing Christmas fun with those that are around us. It makes the holidays even more fun.

Gunks Routes: Te Dum (5.7)

(Photo: the opening moves on Te Dum)



It was still winter, technically, when I got my first Gunks opportunity of . But spring seemed to be in the air.The temperature had suddenly spiked up into the sixties. The internet hummed with reports of great early-season climbing.



I couldn't wait to get out there.



I was feeling pretty good. I was perhaps in better physical shape than ever before, and I'd been climbing well in the gym.



But it got colder as the the weekend began, and by the time my climbing day, Sunday,dawned, it felt like winter all over again. As I drove up to New Paltz with A and M, I watched as thethermometer on my dashboardreported the dropping temperature outside: 32, 31, 30...



It bottomed out at 28 degrees just before we hit Exit 18.



Whatever, I wasn't worried. The high was projected to be around 48 and I figured with the sun shining on the cliffs it would feel warm enough once we got into it. I suggested to my friends that we head to the Nears, where the classics are piled deep, one after another, at the northern end of the cliff, closest to the road. I was thinking of a couple good warm-ups for us. One was Alphonse, a 5.8 climb that'sreally a 5.6 for all but one move. Another was Te Dum, a 5.7 that I remembered as having only one 5.7 move on it:an exposed but easycrux step around a corner about two-thirds of the way to the top. I was eager to get started and I volunteered for the lead.



As we walked to the start of Te Dum we passed Broken Sling, a notorious 5.8 with a bouldery start and a poorly-protected thin traverse above. Like Pavlov's dog I started salivating at the thought of getting on that one. Then beneath our chosen climb I stared straight up at the crux downward-facing off-width that finishes the first pitch of Inverted Layback (5.9). Boy, I'd like to do that one soon, I thought. But first I have to knock off this easy 5.7.



We racked up and I headed skyward.



The climb starts just left of the back of an open book, at a wide vertical crack system that passes two ledges on the way to a third. At the third ledge, where the vertical crack system widens,you traverse to the right wall of the open book and head up past a few flakes to the crux move around a second corner. Once you make the thin move around the crux corner a few jugs usher you up to a small ledge where a tree used to have slings around it, forming an optional belay station. This tree has lost its largest branch and these days hardly seems suitable for belay duties; in any event the rest of the climb is 5.4 and short. A rising traverse takes you out from under the roof over your head and then it's a couple moves to the top. Best to do the whole thing in one pitch.



As I started the climb, worming up to the first little ledge, I realized Iwas actually feeling very rusty after our long, snowy winter. I wasn't used to real rock anymore, and neither my fingers nor my toes felt secure on the stone. Even though the sun was shining directly on the rock, it still felt cold to the touch, and it may have been irrational but I didn't feel confident that my grip on the holds was solid.



At the second little ledge, I found myself standing to the left of the vertical crack and couldn't figure out how tostep up. I had two pieces right there-- in fact, I'd placed four pieces of pro in about 10 feet-- but I confess I was starting to panic. I couldn't commit to the move. My fingers were feeling numb. I told myself this was just season-opening jitters and to go ahead and step up, but when (after what seemed an eternity)I finally did so I immediately slipped off the foothold and down to the ledge on the right side of the vertical crack, where I should have been standing in the first place. Now that I was standing two feet to the right of where I'd been standing amoment before, the move was obvious-- I'd fallen into the proper position. The rest of the climb went smoothly. The rock even started to warm up and by the time I got to the cruxI cruised through it, as I'd expected I would.



My verdict on Te Dum two years later: despite my jittery beginning, it's still, to my mind, an easy 5.7. The opening bit, up to where you move right, is a simple matter for anyone who isn't climbing (like me) with blinders on. Then a very easy and well-protected traverse (use the crack at the back of the open book for pro) leads to a couple nice moves up to the crux. One deep breath and a committing step will take you around the second corner to jugs and the optional belay. Then it's an exposed, 5.4 romp to the trees. A nice pitch, with more climbing on it than I remembered.



So much for starting the year feeling strong. I'd secretly hoped the Gunks 5.8s would feel ridiculously easy as the year began, but that's just not how it works, is it? You have to pay your dues year after year, make a few mistakes, get yourself a little scared, ask yourself why you're even contemplating this stupid sport. And then it all becomes fun again.



The rest of my day went much better. After myshaky performance on Te Dum I handed the lead over to A for Disneyland (5.6) and Alphonse (5.8), and these climbs did a lot to shake the slipperyfeeling off my fingers and toes. Then I took the lead for the first pitch of Yellow Ridge (5.7), which I'd never been on before, and felt absolutely fine about it. And then we hit Farewell to Arms (5.8), which A led and which I thought packed a ton of climbing intothe shortfirst pitch. This was not an easy 5.8, but I'll write more about that and our other climbs of the day in another post.



We ended our day with a rope up on To Be Or Not To Be (5.12), which none of the three of us could even begin to conquer. As we flailed away at it I couldn't take my eyes off of Birdland, just to the right, another 5.8 that has somehow eluded me these past couple years. I prefer roof climbs to face climbs, and Birdland is definitely in the face climb category, at least for its first pitch. But for some reason it just calls to me, and I'm going to jump on that sucker soon. Something about it just looks so appealing, and knocking it off my list early this year just seems like something I have to do. Assuming my jitters really are shaken off.

Wordless Wednesday :: Schooldaze ~ Third Grade

Cycling and Self-Portraiture

I have long been interested in the connection between cycling and amateur self-portraiture. Anyone familiar with the world of bicyclists' image galleries is also familiar with the ubiquitous "panda shots," storefront reflections, snapshots of one's bike shadow. Taken quickly with tiny low-quality cameras, these provide spontaneous glimpses into how we move through the world, what we encounter along the way, and how we relate to our bicycles while doing so. Over the years it has become a distinct genre.




But why do it? Looking in from the outside, it is easy to interpret it as a contemporary obsession with documentation, a marking of territory, or in the case of "panda shots" (pictures of yourself taken while cycling) as a showing off of skill. And of course to some extent it is all that. But what makes it bike-specific? I have never encountered another group outside of the art world that is as prone to self-portraiture as cyclists. Joking around with bikeyface, we tried to start a trend for "walk pandas," but somehow pedestrian self-portraiture does not hold the same appeal.






Last year I wrote aboutbicycle blogs and exhibitionism - describing a culture among the blogs of beginner female cyclists where women communicate and encourage each other by showing pictures of themselves doing everyday bike-related activities. Outside of the intended audience (for example, when observed by experienced male cyclists), this is sometimes misinterpreted as exhibitionism. But for the intended audience it is in fact a "teaching by doing" sort of tool that can be more effective than any advocacy.




Still the trend for self-portraiture among cyclists is not limited to this alone. It is more widespread than that and encompasses a more diverse demographic. From racers to retrogrouches to randonneurs to pedaling fashionistas, cyclists just seem compelled to snap pictures of themselves on or next to their bikes.







It is possible that moving around by bicycle, particularly when we are new to it in adulthood, heightens our sense of self-awareness and it is this that inspires the self-portraiture. In a sense, the cyclist keeps a visual diary. And a true diary, be it written or visual, is more than just about what happens in one's environment; typically the diarist also focuses on themselves.




How well this works as an explanation, I don't know. But as a psychologist and a painter I am fascinated by the tradition of self-portraiture I've seen emerge as more and more cyclists share their images with the world. If you take pictures of yourself on or with your bike, why do you do it?

Ninja Squirrels

The squirrels here are really entertaining. They like to mess with poor Ava, who is generally sitting on the back of our couch looking outside. They seem to taunt her endlessly. I'm not sure if they have nothing better to do, or if they are trying to intimidate her.



Let me show you what we are dealing with!



I know, this guy is trying to look all innocent here. Don't fall for it though.



He knows we are onto him. First he runs away. Then when that doesn't work he tries to be very still, thinking he can blend into the tree.



As soon as he sees that we are not going away, he turns all, "HELLO! MY NAME IS INIGO MONTOYA! YOU KILLED MY FATHER! PREPARE TO DIE"




This is just the tip of the iceberg. They climb on top of the RV and throw acorns on the rig. (Ok, here is where Nathan will say that is just the acorns falling from the trees but I know better!) We hear their little feet scurrying all over the roof. I keep expecting to see one of them peeking at me through the skylight while I take my shower someday.




We are not scared though. We will defend our little space here and our little dog. Time will tell how this battle will end!




Living the life in Sunny again Florida!

Domesticating the Transportation Bicycle?

[Bowery Lane bicycle, made in Brooklyn; image via bowerylanebicycles]

When a skirt-wearing woman is photographed astride a step-through bicycle, she is inevitably described as riding a "European bike."Transportation bicycles in North America are to a large extent synonymous with European bicycles, and the cause is understandable: Most classic bikes currently on the market are indeed imported from the EU. But ultimately, how good is this association for the fate of transportation cycling in North America? Tom Bowden taps into this idea inHow to Talk About Cycling to a Conservative, where he suggests to"refrain from gushing praise of European cycling culture, e.g. the Dutch, the Danes, or whoever. Conservatives are not inclined to emulate pre-colonial imperialist has-beens - at least not consciously." Funny, but true. And in my view not limited to conservatives. The US "as a whole" (inasmuch as there can be such a thing) prefers to be a cultural trendsetter, not a follower. Is it realistic to believe that bicycles are immune to that?

[vintage Schwinn, made in Chicago; image via eva.lu]

A separate issue is that of cultural affiliation. Does a European bicycle really mean anything to the majority of the North American population? Are images of Amsterdam, romantic as they may be, really of personal significance? I don't see how they could be. Images of a glowing midwestern girl riding a '50sSchwinn through the noisy streets of Chicago, or a carefree Californian on a beach cruiser, are likely to be more relatable. And thatbrings me to yet another point: the US has its own upright bicycle manufacturing tradition. From Victor Bicycles and Iver Johnson in Boston, to Worksman Cycles in New York and the aforementioned Schwinn in Chicago, the history is there and the cultural associations are there. Can new American manufacturers emerge from these historical roots?



[ANT basket bike; made in Holliston, MA]

Please don't misunderstand: Obviously, I love European bicycles. English Roadsters, Dutch bikes, French mixtes, Italian city bikes - I am crazy about them all. But in addition, it would be exciting to see the US revamp its own distinct cultural specimen. To some extent, Mike Flanigan of ANT does this nicely - but he is a custom framebuilder and not a manufacturer. Perhaps over time, someone will step up to the plate and we shall see the classic (lady's!) transportation bicycle domesticated.

Plumeria Flower Bud

A plumeria getting ready to bloom.

Undercurrents

[image via reuters]

I have tried to distract myself from dwelling on the situation in Japan, but I am finding it difficult to concentrate on other matters. So I am going to go ahead and share some thoughts here, and I thank you in advance for bearing with me.



My thoughts are disorganised and saturated with emotion: a horrible sense of dread that I try to bury or rationalise away without success. The earthquake and the subsequent tsunami experienced by Japan are an indescribable tragedy and I've yet to determine whether any of my acquaintances have been affected. Andunless nuclear disaster from the damaged power stations is averted, the situation will become considerably worse. Not only will thousands of unfortunate people trapped as a result of the earthquake be immediately exposed to radiation, but who knows how many thousands (millions?) of others may not be able to evacuate in time. And it is impossible to predict (or even to calculate after the fact) how many of those living further away will suffer long-term health damage.



When the Chernobyl disaster occurred in 1986, radiation spread over a huge area, encompassing much of Eastern and Northern Europe. As a child living within this greater region at the time, I remember vividly my second grade teacher explaining the effects of radiationto the class. We were told about what happens to the body and what kind of illnesses one could develop. We were warned to stay indoors, to keep the windows closed, and not to eat any fruits and vegetables for the time being. For years afterward, no matter where in the world we lived, my parents carefully read food labels just to make sure they weren't imported from anywhere near "there." When one experiences this type of event at a young age, it gets incorporated into their world-view as part of the psychological development process and stays there. The inherent trust between human and nature is broken.



The Fukushima Nuclear Power Plant is not Chernobyl. For one thing, as I understand it, graphite is not used in Fukushima's reactors - which is what was responsible for creating such a massive explosion in Chernobyl and carrying the radiation over large distances. Still, it is impossible to accurately predict how events might unfold, should the worst happen this time around. And while many dismissed the Chernobyl disaster as something that could only happen under the Soviet regime, that certainly no longer appears to be the case.



I don't want to venture out of my depth here and express opinions about the pros and cons of nuclear power, government transparency and so on. I only wish to say that this could happen anywhere, in any region, and it can impact the regions around it. It can impact us all - physically and psychologically. As I follow the progress of Japan's containment efforts, all I can do is try to control my anxiety and think positively. With all my might, I hope for the best for the people of Japan. Thank you all for reading this.Lovely Bicycle is not a forum for environmental issues and I recognise that this post is tangentially appropriate at best.I hope that getting this off my chest will help me continue with regular posts.

Chuck Wagon Dinner

It looked like a beautiful evening so we called and got on the evening Chuck Wagon Dinner at the Blue Bell Lodge in the Park.

Our Manager advised us to try and get on Rod's wagon which we did. He was alot of fun and a great entertainer and had adry sense of humor. The pressure was on us to be the loudest wagonas Rod's wagon has always been in first place. We sang songsmany of which he wrote my favorite being "Don't Fall off the Wagon - It hurts when you hit the Ground. Don'tFall of the Wagon - it'shard to get back up when you're down"

We arrive at Parker's Canyon where the actual Chuck Wagon is set up.

You have a choice of Hamburger or Steak - Beware! Do Not order your steak well done!

The cooks

Each ofthe entertainers from each wagon get together and do ashow

These two young kids were pretty good too






Steak, Beans, Potato Salad, Cole Slaw, Corn Bread, Watermelon and a Chocolate Chip Cookie - Did I mention the cool hat and bandanna?



We did the Hokie Pokie



It was Hokie but it was fun (and free!) We head back - we lead the way because we did the best YaHoo! Rod's 1st place spot is still secure!

On the drive home we encounter a small herd of Buffalo on the Road.

We ease on by but some jerk behind us speeds past us and almost hits one he is not happy and it looked like he was going to charge the car.

This one's for you Pam






Till Later!

Meanwhile, we keep on Trek'n

Melissa and Gary

Blizzard Report, from Somerville MA

As you may have heard, we've had a little snow here in the Northeast. We were out of town in the days before it was expected to hit, and hurried to make it back before the travel ban went into effect. Yes: a motor vehicle travel ban for all of Massachusetts was declared, with violations punishable with a year of jail time. Still, here in Greater Boston many doubted the seriousness of the blizzard to come. We've been fooled before with promises of sensational snowstorms, only to receive a measly couple of inches.






This time however, the universe followed through. Over 2 feet of snow had piled up outside our front door by morning, and that was after the stairs had been shoveled the night before.






Beyond the front door I could see an awkward heap of snow, which I realised was the neighbours' car.






Our street looked like this, after the plows had gone through it.






The normally busy main road looked like this.






And this. (Notice anything missing?)






At around 9:30am I saw a procession of plows making their way down the road.






But it continued to snow until mid-morning, quickly covering any progress the plows made with another dusting.






I encountered surreal scenes, such as this one. Any car that had been left out on the street had now turned into a giant snowbank.






Once the snow stopped falling, vehicle excavations began.






They would continue zealously until sunset.






Clearing sidewalks was tricky, considering how much snow had fallen. Some dug trenches, which had to be navigated single file - the snow nearly waist-high.






But for the most part the sidewalks had not been cleared and pedestrians took to the roads.






Mostly on foot, by sometimes on sleds, snowshoes, and skis.






I was a little envious of the snowshoes I have to admit; I would love to try them.






In the first half of the day, I did not see any bikes being ridden. The road surface was too uneven and soft for most cyclists and bicycles, myself included.






At least in the first half of the day, the driving ban was enforced. A police SUV slowly circulated the neighbourhood shouting threats over the loudspeaker at anyone who attempted to drive, other than snow plow operators and city workers.







Pedestrian movement was not impeded, and soon people took over the roads.







At some point, word came that a party was being held in nearby Union Square.








Pretty soon, it seemed like the entire neihgbourhood headed that way (except those still digging out their cars!).






There was music blaring and people dancing. Despite the potentially serious nature of a blizzard of this magnitude, the atmosphere in the entire neighbourhood was downright festive. Those out on the streets were saying hello to one another, and smiling ear to ear.






Kids, adults, everyone looked happy to be outdoors, enjoying themselves.






Some wore costumes.






Others came ready to fight.





Which they did, to the sounds of dance music, with the Somerville Gateway mural as proud backdrop.






As the afternoon waned and the snowplows laboured tirelessly, I began to see a few bikes here and there.






But still mostly sleds.






Andtoboggans.






And skis.






And various snowboard-like contraptions.






I did a lot of walking throughout the day. Many layers were donned to deal with the cold, but nothing out of the ordinary.






Others got creative with plastic bags, various DIY overshoes and blanket-capes.






To see our entire neighbourhood so active and energetic at a time when it was expected to be immobilised was quite something. By mid-afternoon a few local businesses opened their doors to meet the foot-traffic demand for coffee, alcohol and groceries. All of these places were packed.






It seems that Somerville, MA has weathered the storm well, and there have been no disasters. In the meantime, the snow plows are still at it. Excavations of vehicles continue. And although the motor vehicle ban is now lifted, along the largely unplowed side streets snowshoes continue to rule the roads.


More pictures here - enjoy the rest of the weekend!